Arriving on a Sunday a few hours before sunset Columbus, Indiana was as sleepy as any small town could be. The visitor’s center, small shops, restaurants and churches were closed, and we had the sidewalks all to ourselves. With over 90 internationally recognized architecture and public art pieces it was impossible to take it all in. We limited our tour to downtown where fortunately much of the art and architecture could be experienced from the streets.
So how did this tiny town in Indiana end up 6th on the list of the top 10 American cities for architectural quality? It started with J. Irwin Miller from Cummins Engine Company thinking that modern architecture and design could draw creative people and good employees to his company and this community through modern design. Miller was instrumental in convincing the Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen (father of Eero Saarinen) to create the design of the First Christian Church in 1942. As one of the first contemporary churches in the United States its freestanding bell tower and geometric details makes it one of the most interesting buildings in town and launched the local design modernization.
Saarinen’s son Eero designed the Miller House the family home. Miller formed a foundation that provided financial support to pay architects and architectural firms for non-profit and civic projects including fire stations, city hall and many schools. With many well-known architects and designers creating buildings for Columbus including I.M. Pei, the Saarinens, Cesar Pelli and interiors by Alexander Girard designing for Columbus became a badge of a great achievement within the profession. Many older buildings were continually restored and public art projects, community spaces and monuments developed alongside the buildings. Here are some highlights we saw:
Cleo Rogers Memorial Library and Large Arch
I.M. Pei 1969, Henry Moore 1971
One of the first buildings designed by architect I.M. Pei this library was one of the first modern civic buildings in Columbus. Outside in the plaza is a torso and leg shaped arch sculpture by Henry Moore.
Republic Newspaper Building
Myron Goldsmith of Skidmore Owens and Merrill 1970
This building was developed to reveal the business communications and printing presses within to show transparency of information.
City Hall
Edward Charles Bassett / Skidmore, Owings and Merrill 1981
The cantilevered arms frame the two-story, semi-circular window wall of glass, shaped to reflect the courthouse to approaching visitors.
Bartholomew County Courthouse
Isaac Hodgson 1874
A remnant of the historic downtown the courthouse on the National Register of Historic Places is an impressive building with the contrasting colors a six-level clock tower.
The Commons and Chaos No1
Cesar Pelli 1973, Jean Tinguely 1974
The Commons was developed as an indoor public gathering place. The kinetic sculpture Chaos No 1 draws visitors to surprises.
St. Peter’s Lutheran Church
Gunner Birkerts 1988
The 186-foot copper clad spire appears to pierce through the surrounding concrete slabs.
Bartholomew County Memorial for Veterans
Charles Rose Architects 1997
This 5x5 grid features limestone columns engraved with intimate letters written home from dozens of service people who were killed in battle.
Bartholomew County Jail
Don M. Hisaka 1990
The jail uses brick and limestone materials similar to the Columbus City Hall and the Bartholomew County Courthouse. The oval dome is over the outdoor recreation space.
Friendship Way
William A. Johnson Associates 1990
This alley uses bricks that were a gift from the citizens of sister city Miyoshi, Japan. Its design includes landscaping, a neon sculpture with distinctive lighting and a wooden bench that provides a resting spot.
Inn at Irwin Gardens
1864-1890-1910
Original home of the Irwin family the house and gardens were renovated numerous times to reflect the growing family wealth.
Crump Theater
Charles Franklin Sparrell 1889, Alden Meranda 1941
Originally built in 1889 it was redone in 1941 to its current Art Deco appearance and in on the National Register of Historic Places.
Zaharakos
1900
One place that we did get to experience from the inside was Zaharako's Ice Cream. They had just flipped the sign from open to closed but we had 5 minutes before the doors would be locked. They let us enter when we asked to hear the Welte Orchestrion a self-playing organ which has been playing music on and off again since 1908. This is what we heard. https://www.zaharakos.com/music_clips/z_welte_entertainer.mp3
We loved our short time in Columbus and would love to return to explore so much more.
