Durango, Colorado was one of those places we just passed through. On our way from Los Angeles to Santa Fe traveling parts of the Old Spanish trails that are now roads and freeways. A stopping point for gas on our way to the mining towns of Silverton or Ouray. Near our special campsite at the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde, the spire of Chimney Rock and the spot where our favorite states meet at Four Corners. If we were lucky with our timing we would see or hear the active heritage steam locomotive.
Each time we visit we notice upgrades. The funky distressed western town has been refurbished. Like the movie set back in the glory days when it starred in dozens of films. Ragtime and early jazz plays from speakers and shifts the atmosphere to consuming relics of old-time Durango in galleries, boutiques, and restaurants.
A few years back we stopped in Durango for few hours. We biked along the river and had a picnic in a gazebo at a park before heading out to Mesa Verde. That wasn’t enough time and we vowed next time we would stay longer. This time we booked two nights at the Junction Creek Campground giving us a full day to explore.
We arrived in Durango later then we had hoped. It was getting dark. The campground set a disappointing first impression. The landscape surrounding our site was dead, the ground muddy and RV’s overpowered our little tent blocking off nature. It was late, we were tired but stayed up to discuss alternative options for the next night.
The new day brought new beginnings. The sun was shining, the wind was blowing, and we met the camp hosts who were welcoming Texans who head north to spend their springs and summers here. They told us they knew our kind and offered us the best available site in another part of the campground that was near the gateway to the Colorado Trail. We learned this is where the hikers and bikers stayed to explore the mountains. If we stayed at the campground instead of venturing into town there was plenty to do. When we mentioned that we were set on going to the train museum we learned all about the camp hosts' enthusiasm for trains and the treat ahead. We had big plans but knew what we needed to do first was pass some time indoors at the museum to give the wind a chance to die down.
In town the wind cranked up into high gear. We could barely eat our lunch as it blew off our forks. Protesters marched and shouted along Main Ave and were disrupting the “picture perfect” little town. I liked the energy. I felt the façade lift and Durango was more real. More like a place to live than a place to visit.
The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum was situated on the railyards by the main historic station. Inside it felt more like an antique shop than a museum. Overstuffed with the uncurated family heirlooms of railroad workers that told the history of railroading of the region. It was obvious from the elk, bear and birds that there were hunters in the group of donors. Others collected trains, planes, fire engines and automobiles. There were machines of all kinds from the working morse code telegraph to a new solar powered car that won a recent competition.
The standout of the museum were the working model trains sets carefully made and tended to by volunteers uniformed as conductors. Some were set into landscapes of the San Juan Mountains tying the history to the present. The eras the models were crafted were depicted by the buildings, vehicles, and garments worn by the scale figures. Dioramas showed the process of mining from beginning to end.
While exploring the mini train exhibits, we heard the huge steam train from afar approaching the station from its journey down the gorge from Silverton. Everyone at the museum stopped and ran out to see its arrival. People lined up at the station as the train horn got louder until we could see steam off in the distance spouting out of the engine as it has for over a century. Watching the train arrive was exciting even for those of us who have seen it before. The lucky people onboard were soaking in the last of the day long journey. As the riders departed from the train, I asked them what they thought of the trip and every one of them said it was well worth the time and pricy cost of the ticket.
By then the wind was manageable, and the sun was shining. We tinkered around Main Ave, acquired a free balloon and attached it to the bike, and indulged in homemade fudge to sugar up for our biking adventure on the Animas River Trail. We didn’t ride very far before we came across a spectacular playground packed with kids just letting out of soccer games. Kids climbed on the equipment with a huge slide, played in the sound garden and made structures out of rocks and sticks from the river nearby. It was hard to get our 9-year-old back on his bike to leave.
Along the bike path we watched the rough river flowing by with people enjoying whitewater rafting, kayaking canoeing and fly fishing. Along the path some areas were surrounded by nature and others were meeting the ever-growing encroachment of townhouses, freeways and big box retailers. New from our last ride, the trail now includes a bridge that is an amazing feat of engineering.
On the way we passed by a BMX dirt track built and maintained by volunteers. Kids as young as four were decked out in protective gear mastering the trail. We had to give it a shot. After a few rounds I had fun and was happy to say I enjoyed it and called it quits, but our son was hooked. He rode around and around for over an hour as he practiced his skills on the course. We talked to the other parents as if we belonged.
As we headed back, we followed the bike path on the north side of town where there was something fancy going on for a teenage couple in formal attire posing for photos in the special gazebo we picnicked at years ago. This part of the path along the river and tracks was more intimate and surrounded by wildflowers. After many miles we were ready to call it a day. We headed back to our campsite to cook dinner and eat a fresh pie we picked up at the market. We headed to bed in our quiet little tent.
The next day we woke up to the sun shining and as we made breakfast, we greeted hikers hiking and bikers biking. We were a bit envious of them as we packed up to go to our next destination. We had only just started exploring Durango and there was so much more to see. The recommendations for mountain biking and hiking trails and the train ride up to are now saved for when we return and stay even longer next time.
