Over 20 years ago we walked into the only bike shop in Springdale, Utah, at the time an undeveloped town, right outside of Zion National Park. We asked if there was any good biking around. The owner told us that recently some guys went up to the top of the mesa a few miles away and painted dots on the slickrock plateu and made bike paths. It sounded intriguing. Then he told us. ”It’s rather technical”. This was the first time I heard that term and asked him what he meant. He informed us that we would see when we got there.
We drove up dirt roads to the top of a steep hill in our 4-wheel drive SUV. At the top of the mesa, we were in awe of the undulating landscape of sandstone and expansive desert. Pinons, junipers, blooming cacti and petrified wood covered the surface. In the distance we can see the rock formations of Zion National Park shooting up from the ground. We had the mesa to ourselves except for birds, rabbits, snakes and deer.
The top of the mesa is pretty flat as would be expected but riding on the slickrock is like riding a bike in a skateboard park. The bowls and ledges created by over 240 million years of erosion were challenging but exhilarating. Riding up and down following the dots we learned what the bike shop guy meant by “rather technical”. The single track of dirt paths void of rock was just as thrilling.
This first time we rode on the mesa we stayed on Practice Trail the whole time which is a solid introduction to slickrock mountain biking. It is a good warm up in bike handling and balance for beginners and kids. Over the years we have gone back many times and have experienced its rise in popularity as the news has spread and the Gooseberry Mesa has become a National Recreation Trail and a world class mountain biking trail system. We have explored many of the intermediate trails that are more technical and have sweeping views but still haven’t reached the black diamond level trails yet. Recently we returned with our 9-year-old son and spent a few days riding Practice Trail and then the easier parts of White Trail (away from the steep rims) and Bowls and Ledges. We have always been lucky to have the trails mostly to ourselves.
Today the road leading out of Springdale is impossible to pass so it is a 40-minute drive from Zion off of State Route 59 between Hurricane and Hilldale. We still camp at Zion National Park but some people camp on the public BLM land as well as stay in yurts right by the trails. I am grateful for the people who painted those white dots on the rocks to create this natural playground so many years ago and to those who volunteer and maintain this paradise today. I also appreciate the bike shop owner for trusting us with his secret.
Tips for exploring Gooseberry Mesa
- Bring bikes and helmets from home or rent them in Springdale. Bike gloves are optional.
- Download trail maps before you go. There is no cell connection. If you forget take a picture of the sign with trail maps in the parking lot.
- Wear comfortable clothing, sneakers or hiking shoes. Bring layers. If you are concerned about falling on the rock wear pants.
- Bring water and food, more than you think you will need. We have had to leave before we were ready because we were hungry and thirsty.
- Check the weather. It is exposed with no tree cover and can get very hot. We avoid late spring, summer and the middle of the day. Our best days have been overcast with cloud cover, but the weather can change quickly. It is possible to get stuck up there in a sudden deluge and lightening. The roads back can get muddy.
- For those who prefer a guided ride there are many outfitters in the area.
The mesa is one of the most fun experiences we've had on any trip. For those with kids, you can stay on Practice Trail and have an amazing time.
